The Secret Beach


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If we aren´t home a Sunday, this is where we most probably are, at a beautiful beach a little more than half an hour from home.

We had been asking around, but usually got the same answers: “no, that road is too insecure to take”, “no, that way there are no good beaches”. And we listened to people and drove much further away on Sundays when we craved for space, sky, ocean and the dogs for running like crazy and jumping into the ocean.

One Sunday we took the road we had been encouraged not to take. And with the help of GPS just localized the beach that was the closest of them all. And there it was, as if saying: what took you so long? Long stretches of beach, an estuary, remnants of what must have been extensive swamps, birds, crabs. Local tourists who come on bikes, motorbikes or whole families in pick-ups. Fishermen who use artisanal methods. A few ranchos, straw huts, in questionable state, mainly according to wind and weather and the good will of Raúl and his brotheres, who live on the beach and take care of the ranchos.  They charge us five bugs for a little bit of shade and, if we are lucky, tie an old hammock up for us.

It is just perfect. Sitting in the shade reading or just listening to the waves, walking along the beach, a jump into the ocean or the estuary if the tide allows it. At times shallow and with warm, not inviting water, other times with fresh water all the way from Japan. Others, when ebb-tide is ending, with currents so strong from the estuary towards the ocean that we have a job keeping the dogs away from the water so they don´t  get driven into the open sea.

That is perhaps what I most of all like about this beach. It´s  never the same. The formations of the sand, the water, the river and estuary, the colours of the sky are always changing with the mountains – behind the which we live – and the volcanoes in the background if the sky is clear. Lumber all over after a storm, in masterpieces of colours and forms that only nature can create.

The only thing we haven´t seen yet is the sunset. We leave before, people´s words ringing in our ears: “The road isn´t safe”.

The area is obviously controlled my MS-13, with their graffiti everywhere. But we feel pretty safe with Raúl and his buddies. Besides, the President´s summer-residence is only a few kilometres away.

Now you almost have the coordinates of our secret beach. If not, give me a call a Sunday afternoon, and I will give them to you.

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